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Mon Aug 15, 2011, 01:00 AM
#11
 Originally Posted by Monolicious
Bio Balls are only effective when used as a Wet Dry Media and should never be fully submerged in water
I couldn't agree more with this.
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Tue Aug 23, 2011, 01:06 PM
#12
Free Swimmer
Thanks for the pics monolicious, lots of ideas there to try out.
A quick update on my setup. New pump has arrived, obviously pumping heaps more, new problem, standpipe can't handle it, weir sounds like a waterfall.
So .... Replumbed the return, now goes direct to a spray bar with an anti syphon hole drilled in appropriate spot. Old return line drains directly into the first section of sump, but can't take all the flow, raised and enlargened the stand pipe height so drop from the weir is approx 100mm. At a guesstimate 70% of the flow goes directlt via 1/2 line and 20% via standpipe.
End result is silence, no gurgling, no cascading and no toilet flushing sounds.
Pic to follow when l workout how to make it small enough.
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Wed Aug 24, 2011, 03:39 AM
#13
Free Swimmer
Pic of standpipe setup, one of the locals and entry into the sump.
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Wed Sep 07, 2011, 02:25 PM
#14
Free Swimmer
deleted - posted in wrong place
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Sat Dec 31, 2011, 12:10 AM
#15
 Originally Posted by ILLUSN
 Originally Posted by Monolicious
Bio Balls are only effective when used as a Wet Dry Media and should never be fully submerged in water
I couldn't agree more with this.
Sorry to drag up an old post but wondered about this statement.. Why would Marineland give these with there canister filters if they don't work fully submerged??? I don't know just asking as I did add ceramic to the only one of theres I have.
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Sat Dec 31, 2011, 04:01 AM
#16
Blue Diamond Discus
For your canister if you have bioballs in the lower section, just replace them with good quality glass quartz noodles (more surface area than regular ceramic ones). Then use other media of higher surface area in the remaining trays.
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Tue Jan 10, 2012, 05:39 AM
#17
Bio balls will store a shite load of nitrate if submerged.
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Wed Jan 18, 2012, 11:01 PM
#18
Bioballs are designed to be colonised by aerobic bacteria which breakdown ammonia and nitrite (into nitrate) - they are also designed for dry sections of sump filters where water can cascade over the bioballs while getting 'mixed up/turbulent' and mixed with air.
When they submerged they aren't getting enough oxygen to do this as effectively as they otherwise could (i.e. as if they are in the 'dry' part fo a wet and dry).
They also have relatively low surface areas (when compared with other media such as matrix, clay balls and even pot scrubbers).
unfortunately, when submerged, the micro-habitat is not anaerobic (i.e. oxygen-free) enough to support anaerobic bacteria (although there will be some) which breakdown nitrates.
If yo have a submerged part of sump filter (i.e. wet section), try using media such as clay balls, matrix etc. this will give you more surface area for amonia and nitrite reduction and may also help reduce nitrates.
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Thu Jan 19, 2012, 01:15 AM
#19
 Originally Posted by Angelman
 Originally Posted by ILLUSN
 Originally Posted by Monolicious
Bio Balls are only effective when used as a Wet Dry Media and should never be fully submerged in water
I couldn't agree more with this.
Sorry to drag up an old post but wondered about this statement.. Why would Marineland give these with there canister filters if they don't work fully submerged??? I don't know just asking as I did add ceramic to the only one of theres I have.
cause they're cheap and you dont need many to fill a canister, its the same reason aquaone gives them out in their lower spec filter but not their advanced.
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