Filtration idea, your thoughts...

[Proteus]

I was thinking, after looking around a bit.

How much more effective and simpler it would be to use a commercial style pond filter on a large tank.

One I am looking at, handles flow rates up to 4500LPH, and as a built in UV Clarifier.

This is just out of curiousity, but instead of having bits and pieces everywhere have everything in the one unit, adding of course an inline heating system...

here is an example...

http://www.rockaroundtheblock.com.au/img/productImages/large/1314-Bioforce9000UVC-detail.jpg


Product description:
Hozelock Cyprio Bioforce 9000UVC Compact Pressurised Pond Filter


Same as Bioforce 9000 but has an ultra violet clarifier which kills algae spores in the water

Hozelock Cyprio provides a 12 month ClearWater Guaruantee with all Bioforce UVC Filters (conditions apply, read information in package)

Max Pond Size: 9000L

Max Fish cm: 480cm

Max Flow Rate Through Filter: 4500L/hr

Inlet & Outlet Size: 20, 25, 32 & 40mm

Dimensions (Height x Diameter): 520 x 390mm

Lamp: 11W UV, useful life of 12 months (for spare part price click here)

Cable Length: 10m

Power Consumption & Voltage: 11W 240V

Guarantee: 2 years

for more info refer to...

RockAroundTheBlock.com.au (http://www.rockaroundtheblock.com.au/product.asp?pID=112)

[Merrilyn]

Hi Proteus - flow rate is a bit quick for me. I thought about a pondfilter too for my 8 footer. It would certainly handle the water clarity but do nothing to remove bacteria and pathogens because of the short exposure time to the uv. JMO

[Proteus]

you could always use a slower pump (I believe the pump is seperate to this unit so you can custom grade it)

[Merrilyn]

Then its gotta be worth looking into. Post results if you decide to try it. I've currently got 3 canister and 2 large internal filters on my big tank. Would love tofind a way to simplify the equipment. What sort of price are they quoting?

[Proteus]

For this setup, $485.00

(remember, that does include a UVC unit which on its own will cost $150-$300 depending on the brand and quality level)

[Escher]

I guess that if it is replacing a simple canister filter, it has be an improvement; if it is meant to replace a typical wet&dry system, I have a few doubts.
They claim to treat thousands of litres of pond water, but I wouldn't use it in my pond. My 3000L pond has 3x220L drums (as filters)+ 3x45L boxes with plants + 1UV light.
From other ponds owners, these filters cannot cope very well if you have a decent number of fish. But in small tank it might just work! :?:

[Merrilyn]

Valid point on the pond usage Escher. But on a tank of around 1000 lts it just might solve a few problems. Still need to do some research though.

[happydiscus]

that filter is the exact one in my pond but i believe u do need a powerful pump for this system to work....correct me if im wrong.....

With this filter you might need to change the sponges after a while (as they srink ) but over all it is a pretty good system.. might take a bit long to get the bacteria alive but still worth the wait. the ph. and amonia levels have been very steady and none of the parametres change.
:wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:
B.T.W. im running a large titan pump with the balljoint

hope i could be of assistance

[flukes]

Hi Proteus - flow rate is a bit quick for me. I thought about a pondfilter too for my 8 footer. It would certainly handle the water clarity but do nothing to remove bacteria and pathogens because of the short exposure time to the uv. JMO

I thought a U.V Clarifier would only fix the clarity of the water, i think it wouldnt need too be a U.V steriliser too kill bacteria and pathogens. Iam i right on this?? It does say it cures algea blooms so maybe its does.

If that pump was designed for a pond then its must be built too cope with mother nature, in an aquarium we dont have that problem so in theory it should be able too clean an aquarium with no trouble. Would even be a bit of an overkill, but too me thats good i always overkill on filtration :wink:

But yeah if someone knows can we clear up the difference between a U.V Clarifier and a U.V steriliser??

Great post Ro,
You got me intrested now.

[Proteus]

There is a difference between a UVC and a UVS, I will put a post up with an article if I can find it.

A UVC will still kill nasties, just not as effectively as a UVS, however, a UVC wont harm your good little bugs, whereas a UVS pretty much wipes the lot out... dig what I am saying...

Both have there pros & cons, and many, especially here in Aus, are incorrectly labelled... (so many so called UVS's are really UVC's... fake advertising, not from the store, but from the manufacturer) easiest way to tell is the bulb... the UVC I have has the same bulb as a UVS unit I have seen in a store (mind you with an extra $195 added to the tag)...

stay tuned... a link will follow.

[kalebjarrod]

so if the UVS kills all what do you paln to achive with a UVC. surley with the correct quarentine and hygiene, do you need this?

correct me if i'm wrong

[Merrilyn]

Purely for insurance mate - as I understand it, bacteria (both good and bad) are everywhere and even floating in the air, so even with the best quarantine and hygiene, you can still end up with an unwanted bacteria in your tank. If you have a tank with several breeding pairs and juveniles, you could have several thousand dollars worth of fish tied up in that glass box. A UVS is only added insurance. I wouldn't suggest it for every tank, but in some instances it would be justified. It won't affect the bacteria in your bio-filter, just free floating bacteria in the water. I'm no expert, but this is what I understand of the operation of UVs.

[Proteus]

Started a new thread to keep all UV info together...

hopefully this can be turned into an article to help others.

http://www.discusforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=929

:wink:

[DeKa]

Hi everyone,

Just thought I'd clarify a few things about the Hozelock Cyprio Bioforce UVC filters.

Ladyred,
There is no minimum flow rate - you can put the water through as slow as you like. It's important not to exceed the max flow rate (or at least not by too much). The Bioforce 9000 models have a minimum head requirement of your pump of 3m (or 4psi). The Bioforce 1100, 2200 and 4500 do not have a minimum head requirement for the pump.

Proteus,
You're right, the pump is separate, you can use any pump you like that suits the minimum/maximum requirements.

Escher,
These filters work very well providing you don't exceed the "fish centimetre" specifications. The Bioforce 9000 series filters can handle up to 480cm of fish (add the lengths head to tail) with no problems. They are far more effective than drum filters because they run under pressure (min of 4psi in the case of the 9000 series), meaning there is more oxygen in the water in the filter, promoting biological filtration.

happydiscus,
As I described in my note for ladyred, you don't require a particularly powerful pump with the exception of the Bioforce 9000 filters which requires a minimum of 3m head from the pump (even that isn't particularly much). The filter foams should not shrink. I still have ~4 year old filter foams in my personal filter. If they shrink, it means you've probably washed the foams in chlorinated tap water. You should always wash the foams in tank/pond water (just a 10L bucket will do). If the foams do shrink, re-invigorate them by steaming them over the top of a kettle after you clean them. They always come back to shape and size.

flukes,
The UVC is a UV Clarifier - it clumps algae together. It's not a sterilizer. I think proteus summed it up well though, in his reply to you.

I hope that helps everyone :) I've been around these products forever and a day so I know the answers to most questions ;)

Derek :cool:

[Proteus]

Thanks Derek, your input is appreciated