Fishless Cycling.

[flukes]

Fishless Cycling.

Advantages of the fishless cycling.
Well the main reason for fishless cycling is that there is no harm to fish. Although the fish used are supposedly hardier and can take ammonia well it still causes them stress. With fishless cycling no fish are subject to ammonia so there is no stress put on any fish. Another great reason for fishless cycling is the time is take, by using ammonia instead of using fish to create it, you can add the desired amount without having to wait for the fish to produce it, because of this it makes the cycle last half the time if using fish. Also because you are not using hardier fish there is now no way for disease to be brought into the aquarium through the hardier fish. Once the cycle has finished using the fishless cycle the hobbyist can ass any amount of fish too the tank, because the fishless cycle creates as much bacteria as possible the bio load should not even come close to the amount of bacteria that has formed over the cycle period. In fact there is actually too much bacteria so some of which might die because there is not enough bacteria being produced to feed all of the bacteria.

Process.
When fishless cycling was first introduced it was said that the method was too add 1-2 drops of ammonia per 10gals till reaching 5ppm. Because the concentration of different ammonia product vary there is an easier way to measure. Firstly add enough ammonia on the first day to get a reading of 5ppm, record this result and repeat each day until the nitrite peak. Once the nitrite peak has occurred continue with half the amount use previously. Then continue this until both ammonia and nitrite levels are at 0ppm and you should have a high reading of nitrates in the water. Now your cycle has completed you need to get rid of the nitrates, too do this you will need to do a water change. Try doing as big as a water change as you can, even after the water change test for nitrates as there could still be a high amount which you will need to do another water change.

Sources of Ammonia.
Most people i have talked to find it hard to find ammonia, the ammonia used must be free of any surfactants, perfumes, and colourants. If you can try and get ACS grade ammonium hydroxide, using this product you wont need as much as it is very powerful. Always read the label, you need ammonia that is pure or clear ammonia, most commonly found at your grocery or hardware stores. Make sure it is pure/clear ammonia and not cloudy, if using cloudy it will cloud up the tank and wont be any use. If you are unsure if you have the right ammonia, give the bottle a shake, if it contains any additives or is cloudy ammonia then it will foam and bubble at the top of the bottle. Pure/clear ammonia should not foam or bubble when shaken.

Sources of bacteria.As with the traditional way of cycling, you can use some things too help speed up the cycling. Such thing include; gravel, sponges and filter media from a Healthy established tank. In an established tank bacteria has formed on most things inside the tank, if you can find a tank which has been running for sometime you an take an object from the tank and put it in your cycling tank so the bacteria from the object will multiply and start forming around your tank. Try to avoid shop tanks, as they have fish passing through their tanks on a regular basis which can spread disease. Another way is a highly debated product which contains nitrifying bacteria in a bottle. The main problem with this is that bacteria need food and oxygen too live and these products don't come with a freshness label or use by date.

Water changes whilst cycling.
The only water change that is a must is performed at the end of a cycle where you will need too change 60-90% of the water too bring back down the nitrates, this must be done before adding fish. You may also need to do a partial water change if you add too much ammonia, having too much ammonia will take the cycle longer too form enough bacteria too turn the ammonia into nitrites. If you do water changes do not use any dechlorinators, or add any too the tank. Most of these products have the ability too remove some amount of ammonia which in this case the presence of ammonia is a good thing. Once the cycle is complete you can resume using these products again.

Hospital or unused tanks.
This same method can be used to keep unused or hospital tanks thriving with bacteria, with the amount used daily in the cycle, add to your unused or hospital tank daily. If this is kept up when your ready too use the tank there will be enough bacteria maintained too support the bio load of new fish, which in a hospital tank is very important because if you have a sick fish the last thing you want to worry about is ammonia levels. The adding of ammonia should cease the day before a fish is added to the tank, too make sure the bacteria has turned it into nitrates, again a large water change should be performed to reduce nitrates.

Ill leave this topic unlocked so if you have any questions or you need help just reply under this topic.

[Merrilyn]

Perhaps we should acknowledge Tom Griffin who first wrote of his method of Fishless Cycling in January 1999. This is a very good method of cycling tanks with no danger of transfering diseases from the "hardy" fish. Also the tank can be fully stocked as the large bacteria colony can handle the full bio load of a fully stocked tank. For your source of amonia, look in the supermarket for the cheapest 'home brand' Pure Amonia. This is usually the one without additives, but do the shake test and read the label first.

[flukes]

Of course all props should go to Tom Griffen, I was in no way claiming i was the creator of this method. It was simply an article to help anyone who is cycling a tank.
I am still no expert on using this method, ive used this method probably 3 times all with good results and cycling time varying between 1-3weeks.

[parasite]

Hello all, Ive been thinking of trying this method but cant seem to find pure ammonia anywhere, eg: Hardware stores or supermarket (only Cloudy Ammonia) dont want to add hardy fish because of disease/cruelty can you be more specific as to where i could find the correct stuff. thank you in advance.

[Merrilyn]

Where are you Parasite. I'll do the rounds of supermarkets for you. Had my bottle of ammonia for years, so will get you some current info.

[parasite]

Thanks ladyred, im located in Taylors Lakes

[Merrilyn]

Give me a few days and I'll have the info for you.

[flukes]

Mine i got from Safeway, i was finding it hard to find aswell but it must be just that you have to go at the right time. Try a few different safeways/coles and i am sure you will find some.
Mine was called Power Ammonia, has a yellow label with red writing. I think the brand is called superior not sure. It has a concentration of 40g/per 40ltrs.

HTH

P.S - The safeway i got it from, i had checked a week before and couldnt see any, so i think if you visit 3-4 stores one of them will have it.
Iam sure bunnings would have it too.

[parasite]

thank-you both for your help guys/gals , found the ammonia today after going to 4 different supermarkets. Going to start today and see how i go .Thanks again .

[Chris McMahon]

Mine was called Power Ammonia, has a yellow label with red writing. I think the brand is called superior not sure. It has a concentration of 40g/per 40ltrs.I think you mean 40g/litre. At least that's what my "Superior Power Ammonia" says.

I gave fishless cycling a go with my first tank back in Feb. After a 3 weeks I never was getting any Nitrate - just high readings of Nitrite and Moderate Ammonia. I also tried a couple of brands of bottled bacteria with no measurable benefit.

I'm not saying fishless cycling doesn't work, just that it didn't work for me.

[Merrilyn]

give it another try next time you ned to cycle a tank. It does work. I have the tank set upjust as it will be when I add fish, with lights heater plants etc. Add water from the tap but do not add de-chlor. Let filter and air stone run for 24 hours then seed with bacteria from another tank (gravel, old filter medium plants etc) and start adding your ammonia. Full cycle takes me from 12 to 18 days.
Cheers - Merrilyn

[flukes]

Normally when i have a nitrite peak that last prolonged lengths of time, i perform a water change to bring it back too 2-3ppm, leave it for 24hours and then add a slight bit more. Remember you should half the amount of ammonia once the nitrite peak hits, i woud even go less than half.

[Chris McMahon]

Remember you should half the amount of ammonia once the nitrite peak hits, I would even go less than half.I adjusted the amount of ammonia I added so that the level in the tank was a constant 5ppm. Nitrite just kept rising. If I stopped adding ammonia, which I did after a couple of weeks, the levels of ammonia in the tank dropped to almost 0 within a couple of days.

I can only guess that I never got a decent colony of Nitrite -> Nitrate bacteria.

[flukes]

did you use any seeding material from another tank??
I have found that it can greatly decrease the time of cycling.

[Chris McMahon]

did you use any seeding material from another tank??
I have found that it can greatly decrease the time of cycling.Didn't have another tank at the time. Used "Stress Zyme" and "Cycle" without much success.

[Merrilyn]

Haven't had much success with Cycle. I understand the principle but I always thought bacteria had to have oxygen to live. Don't quite understand how you get live bacteria in a sealed bottle. If you can use old filter medium from another tank, try that next time. You may find that more successful.

[Chris McMahon]

Haven't had much success with Cycle. I understand the principle but I always thought bacteria had to have oxygen to live. Don't quite understand how you get live bacteria in a sealed bottle.I came to the same conclusion $40 later. If bacteria need oxygen to survive, how can they give in an air-tight bottle for 12+ months?


If you can use old filter medium from another tank, try that next time. You may find that more successfulI set up a new tank a couple of weeks ago. I ran the new filter in my old main tank for a week. Then I filled the new tank with 100% old tank water. Then put in about a dozen Wisteria plants and the filter. Then the pair of discus. A week later I've got barely registering Ammonia and Nitrite. Nothing a 20% water change can't remove.

[flukes]

Should always cycle mate, and discus arnt the fish too be using it for.
Now they are in there i would just be checking the water cpecs every day.
Next tank have a go with the fishless cycle again, using a seeded sponge you should see results sooner. Also the ammonia and nitrite dont have to be exactly 5pm for the cycle too work it will work with a 3-4ppm reading it just might take a bit longer.
Its really worth it because you know the tank can convert ammonia too nitrates in a matter of hours at a reading of up too 5ppm, more than a tank full of heavily feed fish could produce in the same time.

Anyway mate good luck with it and just keep trying, if the hobby was easy there would be no fun!

[Chris McMahon]

Should always cycle mate, and discus arnt the fish too be using it for.Perhaps I didn't explain correctly. I wouldn't use discus to cycle a tank.

By putting the filter in my main tank for a week, it should have been populated by bacteria. As would the water from the main tank. Finally, it's been shown that most aquatic plants actually prefer ammonia to nitrate, so the plants I put in should also help.

When I say I have low readings of Ammonia and Nitrite, I mean barely detectable. Certainly not even half way to the first indicator on my test kits.

IMO the tank had a full bacterial load, or was fully cycled, before I put the discus in. I'd never delibrately stress my discus, especially a breeding pair.

Now they are in there i would just be checking the water cpecs every day.Which I am doing. This morning I'd say ammonia was <0.2ppm and nitite was 0. pH 6.7.

[flukes]

All good mate i read the post wrong, what ever the bacteria cant convert the plants soon will.

[kalebjarrod]

Ladys and Gentelmen,

First and formost understand that this chemical can be used in explosives

for goodness sake be careful in use and storage

as for the cycling part i have never tried it and i know next to nothing sorry

[flukes]

Ryan,
There is being safe with chemicals and using with caution but the whole point of the fishless cycle is that the is no fish subjected too cruelty.
Look iam all for using alternatives to harsh chemicals but this is for the better of the fish's well being.
Once the cycle has been completed (No fish should be present during this time) then the bottle of ammonia can be placed in a cabinet away from the tank and children. It will not be needed till a new tank is needed too be cycled.
I totally agree that education with the use chemicals is fore most important but this is truely a better alternative. Your wanrning people about chemicals that can be found in your house but what about the ammonia that the fish produce which if the tank is not cycled properly can cause as much damage to a fish then using these chemicals yourself.
This method is not only a faster alternative but it is also a safer method for the fish, of course a bit of common sense is needed when storing it, but even if you tip half the bottle into the tank, what going to happen? The glass might be a bit cleaner but that is the beauty of this method there is no fish present.

Anyway mate its not for everyone but by this article i was trying to help some people who want a better way too cycle a tank other than causing harm to so called "starter fish".

So for anyone intrested the article is there, i cant see a reason why you wouldnt try it, unless you have trouble resisting the urge too drink chemicals. :wink:

[Proteus]

This is one of those areas that have its fans and detractors...

I guess it is an option, that does work, but at the same time, caution must be used...

[flukes]

I guess my point is, that when someone reads that comment they would be scared away from trying this method. Ammonia is a great cleaning product, so since we a warning them about ammonia why not do the whole list of detergents, white king, all kinds of bleach, meth spirits they are everywhere and since we are on safety then why not warn everybody about power points? I mean they are in reach of water being splashed from the tank.
Look i am not saying it shouldnt be meantioned but maybe start up a post stating the dangers and precautions that should be taken when using a specific chemical rather than anytime a chemical is meantioned a comment is made so it sounds like somone that wants too use the product has too have a chemistry major.
Iam all for safety but I dont want people too be scared off by a good thing.

[kalebjarrod]

Sorry, :oops:

I think my post may have been misconstrued

I personally use chemicals every day, i have a chemical storage facility which is bigger than half of my house and i have more nastieys in thier than most people will see in thier lives. My point is that i READ every label before i USE a chemical and i am constantly refreshing my knowlege of the products.

I can make a very deep crater should i be careless but i'm not becasue i know what to do.

Just read and understand chemicals before use, including storage, chemicals are a FANTASTIC things that must be treated with respect.

In the right hands they will pay you back 10,000 fold in what they can do.

does that makes sense?

[Merrilyn]

The wonderful thing about this forum is that we have lots of people with expertise in different areas, and we can all learn from each other. Ryan your point about reading labels is very valid and that is something we all should do. Chemicals are safe when used according to directions. It's up to each of us to make sure that we know what those directions are.
Fishless cycling using ammonia is very successful provided due care is exercised.

[kalebjarrod]

not only succesful but more humane on our "freinds"

please use this system, i have read up about it and the concept makes chemical sense. i just was misunderstood on my point.

anything that stops fish harm ROCKS :wink:

[flukes]

At the same time ammonia like most chemicals meationed on this forum are dangerous. Make sure you do the approriate research before using :wink:

[parasite]

started my fishless cycling a week ago, and testing ammonia concentrations daily and adding pure ammonia to keep level between 4-5 ppm but still no signs of nitrite. Is this normal ?? should i be adding pure ammonia everyday or its ok aslong as it is between 4-5 ppm.. Running canister with noodles and tank is heated to 30Degrees.

[flukes]

Dont have too add it every day aslong as its between 4-5ppm, have you used anything from an established tank?

Also when i go through a bit of a stage with no action i do a water change and leave it at 2-3ppm for a day or 2 then bring it back up.

Have faith you will see it happen.

Also make sure there is oxygen in the tank, the more the better.

[parasite]

Thanks Flukes , done a water and took spray bar above waterline to aggitate water at surface , tested the day after and im starting to get nitrite readings. just another question after cycling has completed does the water added for the reduction of nitrates have to be aged or do i use straight tap water as was when starting the fishless cycling process.

[flukes]

Once the cycle is completed you relly want too use de-chloranated water, well you are just trying too get your nitrates down but if you decide to put fish in there then you will need too de-chlor it.

Remember to half the amount once you see the nitrite and also once the tank is cycled, you must add small amounts of ammonia too keep feeding the bacteria. Te day before you get your fish stop adding ammonia and change as much water as you can. Hopefully the nitrates will be gone and there will be no ammonia in the tank.

[kalebjarrod]

getting a few more tanks this wekend

guess i will be "cycling" soon

[flukes]

Good too see Ryan, once you learn the basics of how it works you wont go back. Its faster and best of all no harm too any fish (even if they are classified hardy)

i hate the hardier fish statment, would you say let a person with darker skin stay in the sun for 8 hours on a 40c day rather than a light colored skin person because they have less chance of burning??

Either person will feel discomfort and i wouldnt like this (Or ammonia poisoning) happen too anyone or any fish.

[jamesmc]

Why not just stick a dead prawn in the tank? Always worked for me.

James

[kalebjarrod]

it does do the same thing except for the fact you have a dead animal floating in your tank and it will tank 4 times as long

other than that they will complete the job the same in the end

[flukes]

Prawn works well for marine tanks. Must remember that prawn might carry something, its a long shot but could happen. Also a prawn wouldnt create near enough ammonia which its couldnt produce for ever.
With fishless cycling your controlling the amount of ammonia and pushing it too the limits because you are using a reading of 5ppm of ammonia there is more than enough bacteria created to compensate for the ammonia.
So after your cycle is completed you can stock that tank to the brim, just leave room so they can move their gills :wink:

[Brad]

I have always just feed the tank as much as i would fully stocked.
Let the food decompose abit and do water changes every few days.
Leave it for 4-6 weeks and then add stock.

Works for me.


Cheers
Brad

[kalebjarrod]

so here is my problem,

i think my new "tanks" are around 100lt each (2 of) plus sump

i have added 400mls of ammonia and still don't see ANY reading

the bottle say 40mls per 10ltrs to act as a cleaner

i am a bit sceptical now as to how much i need too add

i will retest later and post the reading but it has been hours now

how much should i use?

[flukes]

Iam trying to think i used to add about 3 capfuls, you might need a new ammonia test kit because iam sure with 400ml you would get a reading.

[kalebjarrod]

hence the reason i am asking

used the test kit only a few times over the past month other than that its new

i'm off to do another test, stay with me

[kalebjarrod]

LOL

i am a fool

should wait awhile for the test to work

give me the dunce hat

back soon

off to do a water change

[kalebjarrod]

back from a complete water change

lets start again

Flukes,

i have juut started a series of tanks and i know my ammonia test kit works, how much is the rate per 100ltrs

:wink:

[flukes]

Ok the original receipe was 4-5 drops NH3 / 10 gal / day until nitrite peaks, then reduce to 2-3 drops / 10 gal / day.

Now since this has progressed Tom Griffen, the creator of this method recommends adding the 4-5 drops per 10gal testing for a reading, you will want a reading of 5ppm so if it gives you 2ppm then double the amount. Use the 4-5drop per 10gal as a base and then calculate how much you need to get it too 5ppm.

[kalebjarrod]

after a week of water changes i have achived the 5ppm

HINT DON'T PUT IN 400ML OF AMMONIA

do i wait till the ammonia to drop a little before i add more

or do i add two cap fulls (which got the reading to 5ppm) even if it raises the ammonia above the 5ppm?

[flukes]

Naa wait till you see it drop again, you can even leave it at 4ppm. As long as there is ammonia present then the bacteria will form too convert it too nitrite.

The reason its recomended too keep it at 5ppm is so that there is the maximum amount of bacteria created. I let mine drop too 2-3ppm before i topped it up.

I actually found that putting too much ammonia and then doing a water change help my cycle.

Also if you dont see much happening, like 5days without a different reading i like too do a water change and add the ammonia again.

[kalebjarrod]

yeah thats what i figured,

i am onto it, keep you posted

[parasite]

Im now into the end of my fourth week of fishless cycling pH 8.2 i originally started with pH 7.1 Temp 30 Degrees Ammonia: 2-3ppm Nitrite: 5 and has been up for 2 weeks without dropping .... ive been keeping ammonia at half dose after nitrite peak my nitrate fluctuates from one day to the next any suggestions??

[flukes]

You mean nitrites are fluctuating?? If your nitrates are fluctuating then you must be doing water changes.. or have plants in the tank..

Normally when i hit a dry spot, i do a 50% water change. Take the readings again, now keep adding ammonia but not as much. You ammonia should sit around 2-3ppm and nitrite around 4-5ppm.

Normally you dont see things happening when there is either too much ammonia or nitrite. Normally the later because everytime ammonia is added its converted too nitrites.

To make it easier try keeping your nitrites at 4ppm, so if its at 4ppm dont add anymore till it drops.

Just about every cycle i have done contains a water change because ive added too much ammonia, it happens to easily, but a water change seem to start things going again.

Oh something i have not added this whole post...

If your changing water dont use de-chloranated water, most dechlors reduce ammonia, in a cycle we want ammonia!...

[kalebjarrod]

o.k my tanks have been cycling for a few weeks

i add a cap full of ammonium and it brings my level to 5ppm

the next arvo its at nil

NitrAtes are sitting at about 40ppm, i'll do a 80% water cahnge now to destroy this

i don't have a nitrIte kit so i just don't know.

can i add fish (only livebears at the minymo)?

[flukes]

Hard too say if the nitirte->nitrate bacteria has formed but there must be some present.

What i would do is,do a water change try too get the nitrates down too 0ppm, then add your ammonia too get a level of 5ppm.

Let it go for 24hours, if the cycle is complete the ammonia should be zero, along with the nitrite but cause we cant test for this, you'll have too go by your nitrate readings.

After the 24 hours your ammonia is at 0ppm, your nitrates should be over 20ppm. Just as an estamite.

Let us know how you go.


Also kinda weird that you have a nitrate test kit and not a nitrite? Normally its the other way around.. :?

[kalebjarrod]

Also kinda weird that you have a nitrate test kit and not a nitrite? Normally its the other way around..

I ran out and so did my local LFS, to busy ( my wife says lazy) to drive elsewhere LOL

lets see if the cycle works, i will post

thanks mate

[flukes]

No probs, you cant really so anything wrong when doing a fishless cycle. As there are no fish too bare the mistake.

[kalebjarrod]

true true,

looking forward to adding soem fish now

we'll see tomorrow :wink:

[Trebs]

I'm giving fishless cycling a go for the first time. I plan to use it a little differently though and wanted to get your collective thoughts.

I want to cycle a mini-reef setup that has 7 tanks with a wet/dry filter. As I am waiting for my stand to be built I'm going to cycle most of the bio-balls I intend to use in the wet/dry. I'm doing this by filling a 1200ltr/hr canister filter and running it on a separate tank. My plan is once the cycle is complete I'll tank the bio-balls out of the canister and put them into the wet/dry. PH and temp will be comparable (actually I'm going to run the spare about 7.5 and the mini reef at 7).

Is this a viable plan? anything I need to do differently?

Thanks.

[kalebjarrod]

that will work but undertand that only the canister will be ready at the end of the cycle

alot of your good bateria hang on the glass in the gravel on the structures in the tank,

you will need to give these items a chance to "catch up" later

the setup you discribed will speed up the process alot though, i have heard of alot of peolpe useing the same setup to install fish tanks in resteruants when they are the last thing to go in 48hours before grand opening. works well ( although they do add three or four well esthablished filters and cut them back over time, same principle)

[Trebs]

Good to hear I haven't made a complete mess of it. My fish load will be relatively small and I will add water to the setup from established tanks and well as from the tap. I'll keep a close eye on the parameters hopefully it will do the job.

Thanks for the response.

[kalebjarrod]

i would still try and let the tank cycle for as long as possible

it may just make it easier, thats all :wink:

[Trebs]

Hmmm...

I think about re doing the fishless cycle once the reef is setup, should be much faster. 90% w/c on 900ltrs is pretty hefty though.

[Trebs]

I ended up transfering some of the biomedia to the reef and then minicycling it. I added 2 drops of ammonia until the nitrite went back to 0. It took 5 days. After another day I added 2 adults and 2 juvi's. It all worked really well and my plan is to continue to fishless cycle the remaining media in the spare tank and transfer it bit by bit as more fish are added.

[pkth]

So i have a 160L tank which has been setup for about 5 months now, unfortunatley i have used fish to try and cycle the tank and it never really worked got ammonia readings of about 0.25 and no nitrite or nitrate.

Then i changed my substrate to ADA which overnight boosted my tanks specs up to A=4, Nitrite = 2, Nitrate = 20 did water change to combat this to keep fish alive (also didn't know about the ammonia in ADA before i bought it so was a major learning experience)

So at the moment i want to keep 4 Discus in the tank along with some Bristlenose, the tank is still showing an ammonia reading of 1 even after being setup for 5 months don't know why with not nitrite and trace nitrate.

To combat this i have ordered a quarantine tank and plan to transfer fish to this while i properly cycle my display tank this time with the 'fishless method'

Just got a few questions (basically trying to summaries all posts into one so i can have it all in front of me instead of referring to multiple posts)

1. I need to first need to aquascape the tank the way i want it before i add water

2. Add tap water to tank without dechlorinating it

3. Let filter run for 24 hrs

4. Add enough ammonia as per the instructions to get an ammonia reading of 4-5ppm

5. Continue adding ammonia to keep readings at 4-5ppm till nitrite peaks (what sort of reading should i be looking for here? around 2-3ppm?)[b]

6. Once nitrite has peaked add only half doses of ammonia to keep cycle going

7. keep adding ammonia till nitrate readings appear

8. Continue ammonia addition till if i add enough to get a reading of 5ppm it dissapears overnight

9. once ammonia, nitrites = 0 and nitrates register something do a water change removing as much water as i can.

10. Refill tank with water and then i should have a cycled tank

Is this correct? have i missed anything?

Also the filter material i currently have on my display tank although it isn't really doing much test result wise can i assume i have some amount of bacteria in it and that i could rinse it in tank water and then use it [b]or should i add completely new filter material to start the cycling process again?

Hopefully mine takes as short a time as some of the others between 1 and 2 weeks as i am bored of looking at an empty tank.

[pkth]

So i have a 160L tank which has been setup for about 5 months now, unfortunatley i have used fish to try and cycle the tank and it never really worked got ammonia readings of about 0.25 and no nitrite or nitrate.

Then i changed my substrate to ADA which overnight boosted my tanks specs up to A=4, Nitrite = 2, Nitrate = 20 did water change to combat this to keep fish alive (also didn't know about the ammonia in ADA before i bought it so was a major learning experience)

So at the moment i want to keep 4 Discus in the tank along with some Bristlenose, the tank is still showing an ammonia reading of 1 even after being setup for 5 months don't know why with not nitrite and trace nitrate.

To combat this i have ordered a quarantine tank and plan to transfer fish to this while i properly cycle my display tank this time with the 'fishless method'

Just got a few questions (basically trying to summaries all posts into one so i can have it all in front of me instead of referring to multiple posts)

1. I need to first need to aquascape the tank the way i want it before i add water

2. Add tap water to tank without dechlorinating it

3. Let filter run for 24 hrs

4. Add enough ammonia as per the instructions to get an ammonia reading of 4-5ppm

5. Continue adding ammonia to keep readings at 4-5ppm till nitrite peaks (what sort of reading should i be looking for here? around 2-3ppm?)

6. Once nitrite has peaked add only half doses of ammonia to keep cycle going

7. keep adding ammonia till nitrate readings appear

8. Continue ammonia addition till if i add enough to get a reading of 5ppm it dissapears overnight

9. once ammonia, nitrites = 0 and nitrates register something do a water change removing as much water as i can.

10. Refill tank with water and then i should have a cycled tank

Is this correct? have i missed anything?

Also the filter material i currently have on my display tank although it isn't really doing much test result wise can i assume i have some amount of bacteria in it and that i could rinse it in tank water and then use it or should i add completely new filter material to start the cycling process again?

Hopefully mine takes as short a time as some of the others between 1 and 2 weeks as i am bored of looking at an empty tank.