My service- Those with sumps should perhaps read this

[Benny]

Hey all, i was talkin 2 a mate of mine, about making an automated W/C machine which is gonna happen sooner or later (computer controlled) but i had a very simple idea that struck me!!!

You can get electronically controlled valves from washing machines, or dishwashers (my mate told me, i cant remember which) but if i wire one up with a capacitor or somethin to store a small amount of power, and a relay in line, i should be able do develop a system that will shut off the overflow going to and the return from the sump, in the event of a blackout, which shall save alot of flooding for those who arent home when blackouts strike...

Interested to hear feedback,
Regards,
Benny

P.S. I will be making a prototype in the holidayz probably, if all goes well, i will send units out, @ cost + postage

Will greatly accept donations of discs juvies tho
HAHAHA jks :wink: :wink:

[Matthew]

theres a few ones on cichlid-forum.com though I've been toying with a few ideas on paper on ways it could be done ;). one way i found uses normal Sump plumbing and does everything for ya using normal electrical timers :)

-Matt

[Benny]

but can u design a valve that shuts off in the event of a blackout ;););)

[Matthew]

no need. :)

run a pump to a drum of aged water, with a toilet valve in it. auto fills. then at say 3pm, the sumps shut off, and you then begin pumping water into the tanks which allows the sump to overflow, and using a specially designed drilled sump, the water in the sump (old water) gets overflowed and thrown outside into your garden.

very basic and DIY but its an option.

-Matt

[Benny]

that sounds just a tad more complicated then simply plumbing into the pipes a valve, dontcha think? and with parts it shouldnt cost more then $50

[Matthew]

mine shouldnt be much more :p

-Matt

[kalebjarrod]

Your problem is most solienoids run because of the back presure in the pipes

thats what is used to close them

gravity feed stuff dosn't normally shut the solinoid

if you want to stop flooding just buy a backflow valve; you use them on pump that are above the water mark so they don't lose "prime" and run dry

$5.00 :wink:

[Benny]

and on the intake?
I havent yet checked this valvey thing out.. but hek i aint gonna argue with u, u seem to know ur stuff and im just stabbing in the dark here

[kalebjarrod]

most intake shouldn't be situated low enough to drain your tank that much

i hope

and the reason i know about the backflow valve is because i run a few on the pumps at work :wink:

[Proteus]

FYI, such a system would be great, but unless it is designed by an electrical engineer, with the appropriate schematis, if anything went wrong electrically, you would be up the creek.

In theory it seems simple enough, but to ensure it is failproof is where the development is needed. There is actually a product you can use now, and I will get some details and post later.

[Benny]

my mate is an electrical engineer, i wouldnt dare play with 240V without somebody experienced....

He builds NC tools, that kind of stuff...

Hes a bloody genius pro..
I'd never send sumthin out that i wasnt confident with..

[Proteus]

AquaMedics actually make a product which will automatically control in flow, out flow, and levels via a drip controller and computer.

I dont have the brochure on hand, however it is a complete system, it can also control a pH monitor and Nitrate reductor as well as a C02 system (hard core stuff, but it truly does automate things)

[Benny]

all i intended was for something that u put like before the plug for the powerhead
so if u loose power to the pump, the system automatically shuts the intake and outlet valves, so theres no chances of flooding, ur dry media stays dry etc?

Ill work on it some time soon

[Matthew]

Proteus, if you can find info, I would dance :D

-Matt

[Proteus]

ok, I found the link for a computer controlled level, fill system

Electronic level and refill controller (http://www.aqua-medic.de/cgi-bin/php/display_product.php3?p_id=92&lang=en&cat_id=11)

[Matthew]

that looks good, but how would you grab enough water or drain enough for it to fill autmoatically...

-Matt

[kalebjarrod]

Matt,

use the low level swith at the top of your tank, high water mark

use the high level switch at the half way point, or what ever point you want to do your water changes at

have both of these levels hooked to your pump in a stoarge water container

you still need to drain your tank, you could use a drilled tank and a vale

so you start to drain your tank, the water passes the low level switch but this switch is used to turn the pump OFF so nothing happens, you continue to drain and hit the high level switch.

now the pump turns on and your automatcilly start filling your tank

when the pump fills the tank to the top your low level switch will turn it off

in my eyes calling the switch high level and low level are bad its give you a false indication for what they can do, but you just need to use your imagination! :wink:

[Matthew]

I want something 100% automated so i dont even need to walk in and change it... ;) and after a few lil.... things I thought of I may have a way, but at $100+ per tank, i dont know if its worth it..

-Matt

[kalebjarrod]

how much do you get paid per hour?

divided that into $100.00 and you will find it is cheap

you would spend many more hours a year doing water changes than it would cost to replicate the $100.00

you can always find ways to get more money, you can't get more time!