Ich??

[B-rad]

My thermometer went out the other day and my temp dropped below 70 deg F..Now A few of my fish have what can only be described as ich... ( a sugar-like coating all over them) I tried treating with malchite green/ formalin, for the past 2 days and doesn't seem to be improving.. does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to rid my fish of this once and for all...

Thanks

[Merrilyn]

This was posted in our Articles Section by Proteus. You may find it helpful.

Posted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 11:53 pm Post subject: Using Thermal & Salinity treatment to eradicate Ich

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This could prove invaluable for those that keep any species of fish that are particularly prone to Ich (Whitespot).

Raising the aquarium temperature may help combat in infectious disease in some (if not most) situations. Thermal treatment can be beneficial in one or more ways;

* Thermally-induced death of parasites. The protozoan parasites Ichthyophthirius and Ichthyobodo (costia) are normally unable to complete their life cycles above 28-30c (81-85f), so raising the temperature to just beyond this critical value for approx 1 week will effectively eradicate these parasites, assuming the affected fish species are able to tolerate this degree of heat (many cannot).

* Acceleration of parasite metabolism. Increasing the water temperature (even by 1-2 degrees) will generally speed up the life cycles of parasites, and thus shorten the periods spent at chemical-resistant stages (eg, cysts). When used in combination with a suitable chemical remedy or introduction of diluted aquarium salt, at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons (19 Litres) during partial water changes, thermal treatments often effect a faster cure. (total dilution should not exceed 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons tank capacity)

* Increasing the waters temperature can sometimes influence a fish's ability to combat diseases - within physiological limits, the speed and efficiency of the immune response system increases with water temperature. Likewise, an increase in temperature may speed up the metabolic rate, helping the healing process.

After treatment the temperature should be returned to normal at a gradual rate, (over 4-5 days is recommended).

Remember higher temps means less oxygen in the water so more aeration may be needed to compensate, (via an air stone or additional surface agitation).

HTH

[B-rad]

thank you, i'll give it a try

[B-rad]

I recently added copper safe and malachite green to my aquarium, raised the temp. to about 87 deg F. and they aren't recovering... a few of the fish aren't looking too good. If anyone can give me more personal directions I would really apprecciate it.

Thanks

[leanne31]

I've used wardleys ickaway before not on discus but other tropicals which worked really well.

Leanne

[Merrilyn]

There is an excellent article in the April issue of Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine by Diana L. Walstad, titled The Transfer Method for Treating Freshwater Ich.

It basically works on the principal of removing the fish from the tank into a clean parasite free tank every 24 hours, before the fish can be reinfected by the parasites in the tank. This takes advantage of the lifecycle of the parasite, by allowing time for the cyst to drop, but moving the fish before the swarmers can attach to the host.

Needs no medication, other than a temperature of 84 degrees to speed up the life cycle of the parasite, and several clean tanks. Total cure can be effected in 6 to 7 days.

Briefly, the method is, remove the affected fish from the main tank. Main tank needs to remain totally free of fish for 4 days at the increased temperature. The parasite dies in the absence of a host animal in just 3 days.

You need two clean tanks with heater and power filters. The fish are placed in the first tank for 24 hours, netted, dipped briefly in a clean bucket of tank water, then moved into the totally clean tank. A lot of the parasites will fall off the fish in the first tank, and more will be dislodged in the net, hence the need to dip the fish and net in clean water, so you don't transfer those parasites.

The fish will now stay in the second tank for another 24 hours. Meanwhile the first tank and power filter are thoroughly cleaned by soaking in a strong bleach solution for 10 minutes. Rinse very, very thoroughly, add chlorine neutralizer in a double dose and fill, ready for the next transfer.

The author used a broad spectrum antibiotic for three days, to prevent secondary infection.

Dramatic improvement was noticed after the first day, with no new white pimples appearing on the fish. After 6 days, the last visible pimple had dropped off, and the fish were returned to their original tank on the 8th day.

This method was used on a seemingly drug resistant strain of ich, after previously trying several methods to eradicate the problem. Her fish remained healthy after transfer back to their original tank.