Begining of Hole in the head??

[needspeed73]

Hi all,
Is this the start of Hole in the head?????
I have 7 Juvies in a 300lt tank.
If so what next??
Thanks
Ian

[Discus Planetarium]

The Hole-In-The-Head/Lateral line erosion FAQ
Nathan Henderson


DISCLAIMER: Although I have tried to cover the subject thoroughly and accurately, my resources are limited, and mistakes do happen. As such, any and all feedback, criticisms, suggested additions or changes, additional references or suggested lines of inquiry, etc. are greatly appreciated. This is very much a work in progress. Send info/flames/etc to: jude@pconline.com

REQUEST:
If anybody has specific recommendations for vitamin supplements or Hexamita medications, please tell me about them.

CONTENTS: 1.What is Hole-in-the-head/head and lateral line erosion?
2.Is HLLE dangerous to my fish?
3.What causes HLLE? ◦Hexamita species
◦The calcium/phosphorus deficiency theory
◦The vitamin C deficiency theory
◦The vitamin D deficiency theory
◦The stress theory
◦The carbon theories

4.How do I treat HITH/HLLE?

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Q: What is Hole-in-the-head/head and lateral line erosion?

A: Hole-in-the-head (HITH) and Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) are two terms for the same problem--skin de-pigmentation and the formation of holes, ranging from pin-hole sized to large craters, in the head and along the lateral line of fish. A small 'hole' in the head doesn't always mean HLLE though--the fish most commonly affected have small pores in their face area naturally--if you aren't sure, compare the size and location of the 'hole' to other fish. If it's the same on all fish or on both sides of the fish's head, it's probably nothing to worry about, but even this can be difficult to judge since the holes often appear in the same locations on different affected fish. As such, a good familiarity with your fish and/or a good picture of a healthy fish can be valuable for diagnosis. Freshwater HLLE is most commonly found in the larger South American cichlids, particularly discus, oscars, and Geophagus species.


Q: Is HLLE dangerous to my fish?

A: HLLE is a chronic disease, meaning that it's presence is not fatal in the short term. However, affected fish can eventually become anorexic and lethargic, and the open wounds can easily become the source of secondary bacterial and fungal infections. (1) E. Noga speculates that these secondary infections may be the ultimate cause of death in fish with HLLE. Although it is not normally immediately fatal, HLLE should be treated as soon as possible, both for the fish's health and to prevent permenant disfigurement of your pet fish. (Small holes at least can heal fairly quickly, but very large holes may take months to heal or never heal completely at all.)

[ILLUSN]

step 1 buy a test kit and quantify your water parameters. you want 0 ammonia 0 nitrite try and do BIG water changes with heated and PH matched water to get your NO3 down to 5-10 (the detection limit of your test kit) before you start treatment.

step 2 add salt to your water at 5g/40L will help de stress your fish and aid in healing as well have some benificial effects on some pathogens.

step 3 feed a varied diet of good quality prepared food (flake/ granuals) + freeze dired foods (soft shrimps black worms) avoid blood worms. if need be supliment with vitamins like fishtamins (if you can still get it) or promore/progrowth (make a solution of powder disolved in water and soak your dry food in it before feeding, if you like you can tip the rest of the solution into the water).

step 4 test your water daily and adjust your feeding and water changes to keep your NO3 below 10. small feeds often are best for young discus 2-3+ feeds a day only as much as they eat in 20-30 seconds with no leftovers. each day test your NO3 and remove enough water to keep it low (if it reads 20 after 1 day change 50% of your tank daily, if it reads 20% after 2 days change 25% daily, if it reads 20 after 3 days change 33% every 2 days etc etc try and keep it at 10 or less)

if you do this your fish will recover. the important points are make sure the new water going into your tank is the same PH and temp as that comming out. it sounds like a lot of work but with a minor case like yours good water chemistry and propper diet will keep HITH away (your fish will also grow super big super FAST).

[needspeed73]

step 1 buy a test kit and quantify your water parameters. you want 0 ammonia 0 nitrite try and do BIG water changes with heated and PH matched water to get your NO3 down to 5-10 (the detection limit of your test kit) before you start treatment.

Ammonia = 0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate=0 (API master kit) - Planted tank with CO2

step 2 add salt to your water at 5g/40L will help de stress your fish and aid in healing as well have some benificial effects on some pathogens.

I know there are different types of salt (iodised/table etc) which one please?

step 3 feed a varied diet of good quality prepared food (flake/ granuals) + freeze dired foods (soft shrimps black worms) avoid blood worms. if need be supliment with vitamins like fishtamins (if you can still get it) or promore/progrowth (make a solution of powder disolved in water and soak your dry food in it before feeding, if you like you can tip the rest of the solution into the water).

Already feeding Sera Vipan, Discus dinner, Aus Black worms

step 4 test your water daily and adjust your feeding and water changes to keep your NO3 below 10. small feeds often are best for young discus 2-3+ feeds a day only as much as they eat in 20-30 seconds with no leftovers. each day test your NO3 and remove enough water to keep it low (if it reads 20 after 1 day change 50% of your tank daily, if it reads 20% after 2 days change 25% daily, if it reads 20 after 3 days change 33% daily etc etc try and keep it at 10 or less)

I have always tested water every other or 3rd day. Call me paranoid!! I also change 50% twice a week as i never have had water quality issues (as above).
Temp of everything here in Darwin is the same =30 deg -- No heater req!!

if you do this your fish will recover the important points are make sure the new water going into your tank is the same PH and temp as that comming out. it sounds like a lot of work but with a minor case like yours good water chemistry and propper diet will keep HITH away (your fish will also grow super big super FAST).

Thanks ILLUSN For the help

It looks better today (Slightly), dropped the pH a little yesterday after the water change. Photo attached.

[ILLUSN]

keep ontop of it, if your water is good your fish will stay good.