Buoyancy Problem

[Tardis]

My most beautiful, active, healthy Discus has Buoyancy problem, she keeps sinking to the bottom and is doing her best to stay afloat. I noticed this late last night and she's still the same early this morning. I haven't had time to test the water yet, all other Discus are fine. Please help!

[swifto]

Could have a swim bladder problem.

[Merrilyn]

First thing I'd do is a 50% water change.

Is she still eating/pooping?

It could be constipation. Try adding Epsom Salts at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 20 litres of water. Leave for 3 days, then go back to your normal water changes.

[swampy1972]

To add to Merrilyns' suggestion. Salt baths are excellent for swim bladder infections but if you have a small hospital tank I'd treat it in there. It will allow you to lower the water level so the fish can remain upright without struggling and expending energy. This may be more appropriate in the case of 'head standing', but if the fish is fighting to stay upright it's worth consideration.
The last fish I had with a swim bladder issue also benefitted from being fed thawed 'frozen peas'. There's an enzyme in the pea that is said to assist clearing blockages. Just fast the fish for a couple of days then crush up a couple of peas that have been allowed to thaw on the bench. Don't put the skin in, just the body of the pea.

[Tardis]

Great thanks!
I did a 50% WC last night, I'll see how she is when I get home tonight.
She is still eating and pooping and ate a bit of pea last night.
I'll put her in the hospital tank tomorrow with the Epsom salt if she's still not better. Will stop feeding for the 3 days in hospital?

[Xerxes]

To add to Merrilyns' suggestion. Salt baths are excellent for swim bladder infections but if you have a small hospital tank I'd treat it in there. It will allow you to lower the water level so the fish can remain upright without struggling and expending energy. This may be more appropriate in the case of 'head standing', but if the fish is fighting to stay upright it's worth consideration.
The last fish I had with a swim bladder issue also benefitted from being fed thawed 'frozen peas'. There's an enzyme in the pea that is said to assist clearing blockages. Just fast the fish for a couple of days then crush up a couple of peas that have been allowed to thaw on the bench. Don't put the skin in, just the body of the pea.

I had (I think) intestinal worms in my discus that wiped out all of them one by one eventually, and I had the fish in a quarantine tank giving them food basted in the deworming medication. They never ate it, so I tried adding the dewormer solution to the water, which my LFS dude said was less effective.

My question is (and I don't mean to hijack this thread) does fasting fish for a few days have them eat something thereafter? Is there a point when even fasting isn't going to make them eat and they die in a few days anyway? Is there a way to inject into the mouth by hand with a dropper with the fish in the hand?

(I was about to try this but it occurred to me after the whole school was dead and I had only two survivors, the dominant dude and the smallest runt).

[Merrilyn]

Tardis, no need to fast the fish while in the hospital tank, so long as you have a mature filter in there, normal feeding will be fine.

Xerxes, if fasting is going to make the fish eat, then a 24 hour fast would be long enough. A sick fish will usually refuse all food, so food laced with medicine doesn't usually get to where it's needed. If they're still eating, then yes, it's the ideal way, but if they're not eating, it's a waste of time. Better to dose the water and hope that at least some medication passes through the mucus membrane.

You can, as a last resort, add medication directly into the mouth using a small eye dropper or a syringe without the needle, but it's very stressful on the fish (and they don't always swallow) and even more stress for a sick fish is best avoided.

Worming medication dosed directly into the tank has always worked for me. Make sure you turn the lights off and remove any carbon from your filters while dosing.

[Xerxes]

Tardis, no need to fast the fish while in the hospital tank, so long as you have a mature filter in there, normal feeding will be fine.

Xerxes, if fasting is going to make the fish eat, then a 24 hour fast would be long enough. A sick fish will usually refuse all food, so food laced with medicine doesn't usually get to where it's needed. If they're still eating, then yes, it's the ideal way, but if they're not eating, it's a waste of time. Better to dose the water and hope that at least some medication passes through the mucus membrane.

You can, as a last resort, add medication directly into the mouth using a small eye dropper or a syringe without the needle, but it's very stressful on the fish (and they don't always swallow) and even more stress for a sick fish is best avoided.

Worming medication dosed directly into the tank has always worked for me. Make sure you turn the lights off and remove any carbon from your filters while dosing.

What's a good concentration to dose in a quarantine tank or a bucket, if the fish don't eat for deworming medication? Since the medication will affect the concentration, could you also give the name of your deworming meds?

Man, I still have nightmares of when this happened and killed off nearly my entire stock.

I really do appreciate your help and expertise and willingness to help the dumb and clueless, like me, on this forum.

[Tardis]

I've followed the advice from Merrilyn and Swampy but unfortunately she's still not improved, she now has to prop herself up against the filter to stay upright otherwise she has to lie on her side. She's still eating (well she gets a few mouthfuls) but starting to get skinny. Do you think some kind of anti-biotic will help?

Thanks again for any advice!