Wrigglers

[abs]

Hoping for some advice, how long should it be before wrigglers move to the free swimming stage? It's been 2 1/2 days since they hatched and the parents have relocated the brood on a piece of wood in the tank after spawning on the bottom of the tank.

I know that I should have removed the wood - but should I be attempting to dislodge the brood so I can remove it now?

Cheers

[ILLUSN]

Take the wood out and wash the fry back into the tank with a turky baster or syringe filled with tank water, they'll let go pretty easily after 2 and 1/2 days old.

the fry will be free swimming by the end of day 3.

[Gone Fishing]

Take the wood out and wash the fry back into the tank with a turky baster or syringe filled with tank water, they'll let go pretty easily after 2 and 1/2 days old.

the fry will be free swimming by the end of day 3.Hi ILLUSN,
I have a similar problem. I blew them off, but the parents went and sucked them up and redeposited them back on the old egg sacks and that's where seem to stay. It's been 5 days since they got to the wriggler stage and since then I haven't feed them. I know I should have stopped feeding them as soon as she layed her eggs but I forgot not to it was about a day or two later instead.

Now I have low level ammonia and I'm not sure why. I guess the sponge filter couldn't handle the extra waste.

I have done a few water changes with no detriment to the wrigglers, but I find they want to stay on the white breeding pole.
Why is this?

Many Kindly Fishy Regards
Jason

[ILLUSN]

drop your ph slowly to 5.0 and add ahandfull of salt, this will make the parents produce more mucus, to get aro8und your ammonia problem i'd be changing 150-200% of your water a day (drain and fill).

thats how i get my fry to stick and stay alive, you could aslo remove the spawning object.

[abs]

OK - log removed no problem, free swimmers now mostly attaching to the female who visibly has started producing mucus. I have been adding salt at water changes to help there.

How fast would you recommend reducing the ph?

Also there is quite a lot of bickering/fighting between the parents - the female is basically it in the looking after fry department now, the male just seems to freak out a bit, especially with the fry trying to feed. At what point should I remove the male if he is just not helping?

[ILLUSN]

if the male gets in the way take him out and let the fenmale raise them on her own, if he's not attacking the young or trying to eat them you can leave him in and he'll work out what he's ment to do.

lower your ph VERY slowly with the fry go down by 0.2-0.4 a day till you reach around 5.5, then 0,2 every 2 days to 5.0.

[Gone Fishing]

if the male gets in the way take him out and let the fenmale raise them on her own, if he's not attacking the young or trying to eat them you can leave him in and he'll work out what he's ment to do.

lower your ph VERY slowly with the fry go down by 0.2-0.4 a day till you reach around 5.5, then 0,2 every 2 days to 5.0.Hi ILLUSN,
How do you know what your PH is if the measurements only go to a PH of 6.0?

Many Kind Fishy Regards
Jason

[Merrilyn]

Jason, a digital pH pen will give you low readings.

You can buy them online for between $30 and $50.

[byrnsy]

hi all, sorry if this has been explained already but why do you need to remove the wood, also what helps the discus produce the mucus?

Mick

[Hollowman]

Mick,

It is good to remove a dark object from a breeding tank so that the wrigglers, becoming free swimmers are attracted to the 'darkened' parents not the dark 'wood'

The discus will naturally produce more 'slime' at this time. NO NEED TO ADD SALT.

Salt imo is a med only.


hth

Hollowman

[samir]

what's the temperature of your tank ?

[abs]

Hi Samir,

My tank is at 29. Female now raising fry as I removed the male (for his own safety) Fry now alternating between feeding from female and feasting on microworms.