Few problem with breeding pair

[Griffin]

Hi
I have pair of tuks.
I already have precious one baby now about 3 cm.
When they paired up egged are hatched even around 10% what they layed. I had about 30 or 40 fry hatched first few times but only one survived :cry: , afterward either egged go mouldy or male eat the egg which are almost time to hatch(good eggs) all of sudden.

They are good pair (lay egg once a week). They've raised the fry few times already.
I cann't figure them out what is cause for egg go mouldy and all of sudden male eating the good eggs 2 days after.

I'm using about 1.5 cube with sponge filter and bare bottom tank
only pair in there.

some people said R/O fix the problem go egg mouldy is it true??

R/O and UV light is really necessary?

using Seachem prime , discus buffer, geo liquid

Ph about 6 i don't really check GH.

clean tank everyweek about 20 or 30%

P,S:i 've used methlyn blue for egg fungus for other pair since then male refused to lay egg again so i don't really use them any more for this pair.

[ILLUSN]

to fix this problem you need to increase the number of fertilized eggs. un fertilized eggs go white and moldy.

feed the pair a little good food often, 3-4x aday about as much as their eye, try adding some vitmins to the food.

use a smaller breeding cone, try a 2 inch pvc pipe, closer laid eggs means better fertilization.

when the pair are spawning turn the air pump RIGHT DOWN so as there is little current.

lower the ph of the water, it makes it easier for the sperm to enter the egg (i use about 5.5)

do DAILY WATER CHANGES about 30% ( i do 90%) make sure its the right temp (my breeding tank is 30C my aged water is 28.5-29C)

[Griffin]

Hello
First of all thanks for the reply.
90% of water change ?? is that okay ? Doesn't water cycle go again??

What kind of food do you feed them?

I'm not fan of beefheart only feed them once a week but i feed FZ blood worm, brine shrimp, Sera Discus food on top of that using Sera fishtimin Sechem Garilc added.

Also i'm using Discus cone
Do you think that R/O unit is necessary and the UV light??

cheers

[samir]

add methylene blue a couple of hours after they lay, move the filter to a different tank, cage the eggs, change water before the fry start to hatch to remove the meth blue, wait for them to attach , put the filter back in a day after attaching, don't feed parents from the time they lay till the time you put the filter back.

another way is if you put them in a new sterile tank with just the old filter you wont get much fungus the first couple of times.

[ILLUSN]

all the filtration bacteria are in the filter, i only use a sponge filter in the breeding tanks so i have to keep the water very clean, the 90% change is done with aged water of the same temp and ph.

I dont feed blood worms, i feed beefheart mix 2-3x a day and either tetra bits or breeders blend flake or live spirolina fed brine shrimp for the last feed of the day.

a uv never goes a stray, i dont use one on my breedeing tanks but all my others have one, if your water is soft i dont think you'll need an ro unit.

Samir's advice is VERY GOOD! and you should give that a go if you cant increase the number of fertile eggs.

[Gone Fishing]

all the filtration bacteria are in the filter, i only use a sponge filter in the breeding tanks so i have to keep the water very clean, the 90% change is done with aged water of the same temp and ph.

I dont feed blood worms, i feed beefheart mix 2-3x a day and either tetra bits or breeders blend flake or live spirolina fed brine shrimp for the last feed of the day.

a uv never goes a stray, i dont use one on my breedeing tanks but all my others have one, if your water is soft i dont think you'll need an ro unit.

Samir's advice is VERY GOOD! and you should give that a go if you cant increase the number of fertile eggs.Man 90% seems a lot. What about the eggs? wouldn't the water level fall below leaving the eggs exposed.

I was going to setup my FIRST breeding tank, but the guy from the LFS said no light is necessary.

Is that true? And if so why? And why do you need/prefer a UV light in the breeder tank and community tank?

Thanks for the great responses!!
Jason

[ILLUSN]

90% changes are easy, drain the tank down to the egg level, refill and drain again and again if need be till your sure most of the water has been changed.

a dim light is good for the fist few days, i use a desk lamp, it stops the fry from getting lost and keeps the parents relitivly stress free, after a week or so you can go back to using a normal fluro so you can actually see the fish.

the uv is not a light as such, it will help keep down the number of pathogens in the tank as well as maintain a good redox of the water. this will result in less stress on the parents and fry and hopefully keep flukes and other nasties in check