Crypt - Melt Down

[Barry N]

Firstly, great site everyone, what a fantastic knowledge pit!

Does anyone have any 'secrets' regarding melt down of Crypts and how to counteract it in the early stages?

Recently had a few real hot days here in Adelaide, and the crypts just went belly up and started to melt..... :( (Temp went from normal 30 to 34+) Have had this happen a couple of times over the years, but I'm curious if anyone more experienced has any idea's of what to do when it starts? I've found that they all die off quickly within 24 hours or so. They always come back great within a couple of weeks. Assume the temp is the culprit as water parametres are good?

I normally increase the water changes to daily (from 50% every 3rd day) and just get the gunk out of the tank....any idea's?

Also, fertilising - what's the best for crypts and swords? Just use Flourish at the moment, anything else I should consider?

This tank is 4x2x2 with 9 discus, tertras, corys, crypts, swords, anubias. PH 6.8, Ammonia, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate <5ppm

[ILLUSN]

crypt melt happens in response to enviromental stress, in my tanks its usually due to temp changes or Ph changes, as you said they always come back.

once it starts there isn't much you can do except try to stabilise the water, if you can the melt will stop and new leaves will grow, however I sware they come back better if you just let them melt.

as for ferts, crypt are like swords and VERY heavy root feeders, keep ut the macros (especially K ) in the substrate, dose iron and trace elements as required (when you see deficiencies in the plants).

Florish is GREAT for stem plants, for crypts, get some pond lilly tablets that are low in P or if you can find them some Jobes sticks (I import mine from the US but they are getting expensive). another good root fert is to buy some osmocote NATIVE PLANT mix and mix 10-15 grains into a tsp of clay from the garden, let them bake in the sun for a good couple of hours till they're hard and place them in the substrate around the plants.

If you want to get super nerdy add a pinch of chelated iron from bunnings and a pinch of postaium sulphate (also from bunnings) to the clay balls before you roll them, and watch your plants grow faster then ever before.

you'll have to redose the clay balls every 6weeks to 2 months depending on how fast your plants grow.

[Barry N]

Hey Illusn,

Magic. Thanks for that. Agree that the Crypts always come back bigger and better. :D

Bunnings, here I come :lol: :lol:

Don't have clay based soil where I am in Adelaide - just dusty limestone garbage.....any alternatives - potters clay perhaps?

Thanks again!

[Scotty Bils]

Any news about the potters clay? Is this ok? Where do you get it from?

[ILLUSN]

terracotta will wprk well, its the super fine grain size of clay that alows the intimate root contact needed for CEC that makes the fertilizer balls work.

[Roy]

Ive found with high temps in summer that facing a fan over the top of the tank helps.
Last resort is popping a frozen 600ml water bottle into the tank before going to work.
Slows down the overheat a bit.
Doing this i had no crypt melt over the summer (so far) and my house heats up a fair bit.

Roy

[Barry N]

Thanks Roy. I've set the A/Con on hot days to come on and cool the tank down. If we get anymore 40 degree + days I'll take your advice.

ILLUSIN, followed your advice and have made my own ferts with some clay I got my hands on and the Osmocote, Chelated Iron and Pottasium Sulphate mix. It's been in the tank for nearly 2 weeks now and the results are unbelievable - new leaves on the swords and crypts are unreal. Swords loved this - the have gained an extra 8 inches in height over what I've experienced before. Crypts are just shooting out runners everywhere. Great Stuff. :D

[ILLUSN]

dont forget to keep them up!

soon you'll have more swords and crypts then you know what to do with.

keep an eye out for trace element defficiencies (mostly Mg, this might not be problem in adelaides water)